Red Medicine - Los Angeles | Adventures in Molecular Gastronomy
Red Medicine has been around the LA dining scene for a while, and it got some press for some feisty twitter posts shaming no-shows (which I totally get, btw). Read their manifesto, which gives you a good sense of their vibe. I love that it’s a casual environment serving fine dining fare. Chef Jordan Kahn forages for many ingredients he puts on his menu and as you can tell, uses a lot of molecular techniques. I met with nickoftimela for dinner. I felt very not LA in comparison with my green vest, but oh well. I arrived a little less late and ordered a drink that when shaken, turned a different color. Cool!
We decide to go all in and got the tasting, which is actually pretty reasonably priced at $65 ($35 with pairing). Overall, the palate is very light, clean and fresh, with a heavy focus on greens and vegetables. A number of dishes are served in bowls, topped with frozen lids that you crack and mix with the other ingredients in the bowl. I liked a number of the courses, in particular:
Trout Roe - a fresh, ice of raw snap peas with light (mild) pops of salt from the roe sitting at the bottom of the bowl, with crunch from the sunflower seeds.
Fresh Cream - beauty of flavor, to some degree. It felt too healthy, like some of the grain and vegetable heavy courses I’ve had at Commonwealth in SF. But damn is that a beauteous plate!
Shaved Ice of Redwood Stems - the creme really brought me back to summers eating rich, milky soft serve. That creamy rich dairy flavor and aroma contrasted really well with the foam and crispy rice crackers. I don’t like desserts, but this was probably one of my favorite courses.
My least favorite was the Potato dish. We had small potatoes that were cooked to different degrees of doneness (some were basically raw). I’m sure this was intentional as it did add a lot of textural contrast. All the potatoes were coated in a rich butter. It just felt a little too one note.
Overall, I loved the plating and technique. The presenting is spectacular. The flavors were less consistently impressive, although there were definitely some gems on the menu.
Wild Brook TROUT ROE buried beneath a savory lemon custard, sunflower seed granola, raw snap peas and an ice made from their shells, extra virgin sunflower seed oil, frozen yogurt powder, dried meringue made from lemon thyme, tender pea vines, baby onion bulbs brined in vinegar. A custard of FRESH CREAM surrounded by young anthocyanin roots, and stalks, roasted walnut marzipan, dried cabbage, sour rhubarb juice infused with fragrant verbena. DUNGENESS CRAB FROM THE OREGON COAST, seasoned with butter infused with its shell and liver, soft biodynamic egg yolk, charred lettuce, a buttery porridge made from salicornia and lovage, pickled velvet pioppini mushrooms, sunchokes and their crispy skins, spicy leaves. Young POTATOES, gently poached in a cream of cultured sweet butter and yeast, crisp rice dumplings, wild grasses, flowers, and succulents foraged from the Malibu coast, an aromatic sauce of raw wheatgrass and chive juice. LAMB’S SHOULDER, slow-roasted with Sequoia redwood shoots, ripe and unripe mango, yellow roots, preserved mustard seeds, puffed soymilk skin, wild yarrow leaves. SHAVED ICE OF REDWOOD STEMS, sour red currant berries and jelly, crème chiboust flavored with violet flowers, crispy rice crackers, orange blossom bubbles, roasted almond praline.